The Fault Line: Traveling the Other Europe, From Finland to Ukraine, by Paolo Rumiz
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The Fault Line: Traveling the Other Europe, From Finland to Ukraine, by Paolo Rumiz
Ebook PDF The Fault Line: Traveling the Other Europe, From Finland to Ukraine, by Paolo Rumiz
An award-winning writer travels the eastern front of Europe, where the push/pull between old empires and new possibilities has never been more evident. Paolo Rumiz traces the path that has twice cut Europe in two—first by the Iron Curtain and then by the artificial scaffolding of the EU—moving through vibrant cities and abandoned villages, some places still gloomy under the ghost of these imposing borders, some that have sought to erase all memory of it and jump with both feet into the West (if only the West would have them). In The Fault Line, he is a sublime and lively guide through these unfamiliar landscapes, piecing together an atlas that has been erased by modern states, delighting in the discovery of communities that were once engulfed by geopolitics then all but forgotten, until now.The farther south he goes, the more he feels he is traveling not along some abandoned Eastern frontier, but right in the middle of things: Mitteleuropa wasn’t to be found in Viennese cafés but much farther east, beyond even Budapest and Warsaw. As in Ukraine, these remain places in flux, where the political and cultural values of the East and West have stared each other down for centuries. Rumiz gives a human face not just to what the Cold War left behind but to the ancient ties of empire and ethnicity that are still at the root of modern politics in flash-point areas such as this.
The Fault Line: Traveling the Other Europe, From Finland to Ukraine, by Paolo Rumiz- Amazon Sales Rank: #902786 in Books
- Brand: Rumiz, Paolo/ Conti, Gregory (TRN)
- Published on: 2015-03-03
- Released on: 2015-03-03
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 8.57" h x .96" w x 5.77" l, .0 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 256 pages
Review “In his first book translated into English, La Repubblica correspondent Rumiz vents his anger at the European Union's "rhetoric of globalization," which homogenizes ethnic distinctions and threatens to obliterate traditional communities. His nostalgic, engaging search for the heart of European identity takes him from the Arctic to the Mediterranean, through present-day Finland, Latvia, Ukraine and Poland. In these regions, the author finds depopulated villages, survivors of mass deportations and exterminations that continued long after World War II. Exploring the border between Russia and the European Union, Rumiz realized that he was traveling "a seismic fault that's only apparently dormant" because Russia, under Putin, is becoming a renewed threat. A richly detailed journey into Europe's dark past and vulnerable present.” –Kirkus Reviews“In this hypnotic travelogue, Italian journalist Rumiz weaves a poetic narrative about his 2008 journey along the length of the former Iron Curtain…There’s an unlikely poetic beauty to his flowery, indulgent prose…He lovingly describes his escapades and experiences, conjuring up places few tourists ever visit, exposing the dichotomy between the modernity of the EU and the time-lost ways of the old world, and illuminating a much-overlooked region of the world in a thoroughly fascinating manner. Though he’s given to purple prose and overly colorful descriptions, there’s no denying the allure and appeal of his European odyssey.” –Publishers Weekly"A glimpse of a hard journey through hard times, highly recommended for those interested in European history and little-known corners of travel." -Library Journal"It's 'goodbye Iron Curtain; hello, EU scaffolding,' as Rumiz learns in a journey through new post-Soviet Europe." -National Geographic Traveler"Idiosyncratic, lushly observed and aglow with philosophical asides, this questing travelogue sheds light on regions you’ve never heard of, where traditions endure from other ages. . . Rumiz’s paean to 'peripheral places' shows his readers that dystopian modernity isn’t the only story of the present-day eastern borderlands: A fairy tale lurks between the lines, and those who have enough intuition and courage (and perhaps a Russian translator) can discover it for themselves, if they borrow his map." -New York Times Book Review
About the Author Paolo Rumiz has been a correspondent for Italy’s La Repubblica since 1986, focusing on the Balkans and Eastern Europe. He was a frontline correspondent during the wars in the former Yugoslavia, Bosnia/Herzegovina, and Afghanistan, and has won many prizes for his journalism and nonfiction.
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Most helpful customer reviews
5 of 5 people found the following review helpful. He travels light and slow By James Denny A bit of an odd duck even by his own admission, author Paolo Rumiz takes a "road trip" on the east-facing front of eastern Europe, traveling north-to-south. This is indeed, an odd trip since all regular lines of transit, rail and road run east-to-west.Starting from Kirkenes in the far north of Norway, Rumiz travels south to Istanbul, paralleling and repeatedly crossing a new line which he terms "The Fault Line." This line separates the new Europe from today's Russia. This new "Iron Curtain" lies a few hundred miles east of the old one which separated western Europe from the Soviet Union and its allied states. During the Cold War era, NATO Europe and the Warsaw Pact countries faced one-another until the Soviet breakup in 1991. The new line crosses all sorts of borders, cultural zones, religious affiliation regions, ethnic concentrations, economic zones, architectural boundaries and historic political boundaries. What Rumiz does best in this narrative is identifying and describing what he sees and experiences.Rumiz writes: "To understand which way the world is heading, you have to go to train stations, not to airports. But because diplomats prefer airports, their governments are no longer capable of forseeing events." Rumiz knows he must travel slow if he is to have "encounters" to meet people and give him something to digest and write about. He writes in a lyrical style and his observations will stay with you. For a guy over sixty, he is adventuresome and risk-taking even as he realizes he is comically old now to be traveling light and slow with a fifteen-pound backpack.
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful. Russia’s Western “Border Zone”/Europe’s Frontier”. By Loves the View Paolo Rumiz and his translator/companion/photographer Monika travel light. With only backpacks and one change of clothes they take trains and buses from northernmost Finland to the Ukraine. Their route is vertical but often zig zags crossing Russia’s western “border zone”/Europe’s frontier”.Paolo and Monika enjoy most the places tourists visit least. They acquainted me with remote places such as Kirkenes (the place of the northernmost internet connection), Monchegorsk (“ the meringue city”) and Karelia ( the start/end of the arctic circle) the Solovetskys (the monastery islands). Once they cross over to Estonia, Latvia, Kaliningrad, Poland and points further south they see the influence of the EU, the USA and an intense pace of life.The descriptions are wonderful, from the processing of crabs with the 6 foot claws in Kamchatka, to the varied and often ominous border crossings (days long lines for Estonia-Russia) to the curfew for men (not women or boys) in Belarus cities to a shakedown in the Ukraine.Throughout the trip they note synagogues and an historical Jewish presence, but few Jews. They learn that most who survived the war left in 1990’s when visas became easier to get.Through conversations with locals (Paolo says you can't learn what is happening from diplomats in airports) you hear that all are thrilled with the collapse of communism. Alya Andreyevna morns her job in a now vanished day care center and the team spirit of the past. She worries that the wooden houses of her town will be bulldozed to make room for cement buildings. Another woman longs for the order of the past and says there is too much drinking now. The market economy is bringing tourists to the arctic who shoot reindeer for only their antlers and people everywhere who exploit the once shared lands.I liked the narratives about people with quotes from the everyday conversations. The best was that of Tatiana and Vitaly of Lovozero glimpsing their lives and showing the worry foreign house guests can cause. The portraits of places were good, but had me going to the internet for orientation (how big is this city? Where, exactly is this?).Despite the depth and beauty of the prose, (kudos to writer and translator) I can’t give it 5 stars. The borderless map was not much of a help and Monika’s photography was frequently cited, but not one picture is included.
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful. Borderlands and frontiers have long fascinated me. Paolo Rumiz ... By L. A. Robinson Borderlands and frontiers have long fascinated me. Paolo Rumiz, long time Italian journalist and world traveler, has journeyed the traditional borderlands of Europe made new by the European Union; what Rumiz calls "fortress Europe." Rumiz and his traveling companion prefer their Europe wild and raw which is why they commit to traveling the non-EU side of the vertical border from Murmansk Russia to Istanbul by train and bus for most of their journey. Through a portion of Europe which is little written about we meet gregarious grandmothers, gangsters, surly youth and back-to-the-land authors who share their stories about life and history.Rumiz and his companion have an open attitude to the people and places they experience which is very refreshing. They also understand the deep historical and cultural nuances of lands where there is a deep void resulting from the forced deportations, relocations and exterminations of peoples over the last century. About the market square in Chernivtsi Ukraine, the former Czernowitz, center of Jewish culture and learning, Rumiz has to say: "All around are Cossack butchers with cascading mustaches, buxom Moldovian farm women, vociferous Romanians selling strings of braided onions, bony-faced Carpathian natives with baskets of mountain herbs and greens. The only missing player in this chaotic scene is the Hassidic Jew with his wide-brimmed black hat, black long coat, and curls down to his shoulders." He understands what has been lost. And the rich strangeness that yet remains.
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